I am preparing a sample door in black walnut with a veneer center panel. Target Coatings Emtech 2000 clear. The black walnut I've been working with has topped out buttery smooth at either 200 or 220 at a final sanding working up from 80 on a random orbit and palm. Spray and wipe stain. This finish gives walnut a dark yet warm color, and if you choose to apply it by wet-sanding, this too can fill the grain as above. We may receive a commission when you use our affiliate links. 3.) As I understood the job, it required slicing up 10/4 walnut lumber into a fairly complex geometry, sanding them mirror smooth and then routing a recess for the brass plaque. You just have to work fast and wet the entire surface quickly to avoid overlap marks. For this particular project, im going for a somewhat modern look, dark, smooth and glossy. Waited 24 hours, then took a cotton rag soaked in mineral spirits and wrung out real well, then lightly wiped off any excess pigment. Sand with 400 or de-nib with maroon pad if grain didn't raise too much. For additional color and depth, add 1/2 - 1 ounce of the dye to your second coat of finish and spray that evenly over the first coat after it's sanded smooth. 9.) Too fine of sanding was supposed to close off the grain and cause the stain to pool on top instead of penetrating. I like to use the fast dry poly from the local home center because it's cheap and really does dry fast. Hi all, Nearing completion on my first-ever project, a black walnut slab coffee table with an ash base: 247050 I'm just starting to read up on finishing (purchased Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner) and am leaning towards using wiping varnish on the slab, probably the same on the ash base. I had always thought you weren't supposed to sand raw wood finer than about 180 grit when staining. I am preparing a sample door in black walnut with a veneer center panel. I have a couple of questions after reading your schedule. This will be my first time working with it, so I thought id ask you guys for any tips or advise in regards to sanding/finishing. Posted October 2, 2008. 1 coat of spray dye stain to help pop figure and get even color. I'm very ignorant of stains and dyes, as we try to encourage people to choose a wood that is naturally a color they like (or enhanced with glazes), hence using black walnut instead of a dark stained oak or painted cabinets. Buy red, blue, yellow and black water-soluble dye powder and custom mix a sapwood. Sounds like the walnut you have is steam dried, which washes out a lot of the color (like the piece on the right in the picture below). I've never done black walnut, and the WB finish doesn't really enhance grain the way solvent does, so for this special project, I'd like to know if there is something I can use to enrich the wood and help it pop. In Techniques. We gradually adjusted the color of the dye by adding drops of blue and black to reach the purplish gray hue of kiln-dried walnut. More about how I finished that in “Part 1” > The solid walnut top, above, is a slightly different story. Additional info if needed: I'm using a Kremlin air-assisted airless with #6 tip. I've never done black walnut, and the WB finish doesn't really enhance grain the way solvent does, so for this special project, I'd like to know if there is something I can use to enrich the wood and help it pop. 7.) Products used: Walnut can have some amazing grain patterns that, while quite dark, can be extremely attractive when finished properly. I was most interested in your suggestion as it seemed very doable for this project. Warm browns and orange-ish browns look good on the steam dried walnut. Looking back, I even believe that is what happened in our shop many years ago when we sanded red oak with 220 grit before staining (this was all solvent based products). With all large projects, you want your steps and techniques to be easy and repeatable over large and numerous surfaces. Forum Responses We've been using WB finishes for about 6-7 years now. Im about to begin a project using some beautiful american black walnut i purchased. Dust Collection, Safety and Plant Operation, Job Opportunities and Woodworking Services, A detailed discussion on staining kiln-dried Walnut. 0. 2.) We've been using WB finishes for about 6-7 years now. Thin it with 2 parts naphtha or mineral spirits to one part finish. Fuhr 165 spray wipe stain Hand sanding with the grain is the best way to massage this hardwood into bringing out its beautiful grain, working with progressively finer grits of sandpaper as you go. You could always use lacquer on the base if you want a completely clear finish on it. 5.) The piece on the left is an example. Freshly planed, this wood has an overall greyish look. 72 Posts . Walnut takes dyes and stains very nicely. 1.) I'm concerned about yellowing though. I also have an inexpensive gravity fed pot gun for applying WB SNW stains. So could you tell a little bit about why you take the steps you do in your schedule? I'm not adverse to taking a solvent step to start, if it will enhance the end product. I'd like our current project to have a similar brown/black tone possibly. By Glen D. Huey. Spray final topcoat. Any suggestions practical for a room-sized project? The clear oil-base finish will pop the color, figure, and grain in the wood pretty good and once it dries completely, you can topcoat it with the waterborne finish without any problems. November 14, 2009. Fuhr 155 spray dye stain Here is mahogany after topcoats. However, I found that a 50/50 mix of Minwax Special Walnut and Dark Walnut applied after necessary sanding, using an old cotton T-shirt, was nice. 4.) The first step to showing off these grain patterns is to sand the wood properly. Two full coats of top coats back to back with no sanding in between 4-5ml. I never soaked or applied too much, just a nice even coat. Contributor B, I want to compliment you on the beautiful photos you posted! However, this does not impact our recommendations. Question I'm not trying to mimic the yellowing effect of oil-based finishes (that's the main reason we switched to WB), just bring out any shimmer and enhance the grain and not add a greyish cast. Spray an even, wet coat of lacquer on the wood. If you were working with air dried walnut that had good coloring, then you could just use a coat of highly thinned fast drying oil-base varnish or polyurethane like a stain on the bare wood before topcoating with the WB. The fruit (nut) is often eaten as a food. 8.) You are using a spray and wipe stain, *and* a dye? The appearance is only slightly different – but different nevertheless. Finishing Walnut. I use a lot of walnut in my woodworking and I have problems getting all of the sanding marks out of it. Walnut door: Tung oil varnish can be used by itself, and then buffed to a semi-gloss or satin sheen with paste wax after 3 or 4 coats. The nut, the shell of the nut (hull), and the leaf are sometimes used to make medicine. Home / Techniques / Finishing Walnut. Since the ash base is dyed black and glazed with a gray stain for a unique look, I put that in a separate tutorial. You can get a water-reducible dye that's lightfast (resists fading) and apply it by spray and wipe or by hand using a wetted cloth. After that, you can use whatever protective finishing you like, but that'll pop the grain all you'd like. The Minwax clear poly, to me, let plenty of detail come through and didn't darken, just highlighted. Lightly sand with 400 to knock down fur. You can even add an overall burnt umber glaze after the first coat of finish for added effect and to enhance the grain. From Paul Snyder, forum technical advisor: Try it on scraps of both woods before you start finishing the whole piece. A local bank needed about 60 blocks of black walnut machined to hold brass name plaques for its big muckety-mucks. Self sealing topcoat thinned 5-10% sprayed around 2ml. Then wipe off the excess and let it dry. The local Sherwin-Williams store suggested pre-treating with their neutral stain base, untinted. Wipe door with damp clean rag to pre-raise the grain.
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